A day in Bocas

Today started off a bit uneventful. Even though I was up early and walked to the market on the island to stock up on water and these delightful cans of pre-made rum and coke, it kind of took forever to get teh day started. I decided I wanted a breakfast that was not toast so I went to this cafe at a nearby hostel where it took me TWO HOURS to get breakfast. Since dinner the first night also took that long, I think it is an Isla Carnero thing.

Then it rained. Then I walked down the island to take a swim in the "beach" on the island, but it was really shallow and I kept getting caught in seaweed. Then I tried to pick up snorkel gear and it took another half an hour for someone to hand me a mask. BUT then, finally, the day started. I decided to snorkel at a place called Hospital Point. I had some tumultous times with past tour companies, so I really wanted to go to a place where I could be in control. I had a water taxi drop me off (which, fun times, they really do just stop near the shore and tell you to get out) and thankfully had the forsight to arrange with him to pick me up again in a couple of hours to go back. I shudder to think if I had forgotten and been stranded on the island attempting to shout down nearby taxis or hitch a ride with other tourists. It was lovely. I saw swordfish swimming near the surface and a variety of colorful fishies on the bottom. Of course, the waves made the water a bit murky at times and the boats themselves did not help. Nonetheless, there was some very cool coral (which I may have banged my knee on) and other things to see.

After my taxi came back and deposited me at the hotel, I changes and headed to Old Bank or Isla Barrimento. Old Bank is the second largest city in Bocas del Toro, and one of the women I met while snorkeling suggested I visit there and go to a place called Up in the Hill in the rainforest. She said it was a cool cafe and shop with products made on sight. Of course, I start thinking a big endeavor that would have lots of local products that I could buy as souveniers. No such luck. In truth, I spent 45 minutes hiking up a hill in the scorching Panama sun to get to someones house that had a patio where you could order an egg sandwich, a coffee, or a brownie and buy coconut lip balm. It was delightfully quirky in its own way, but not necessarily worth the long hike. I ate a brownie and a coffee, bought my two dollar lip balm, and enjoyed the experience. At least I got to see some rainforest.

The woman, coincidentally, was from Scotland. Coree Brown, she thinks that the Scots will waiver when it comes to the final vote on separation out of fear. After the jungle, I took the water taxi to the main town, Bocas del Toro (Panama loves to do that). I wandered a bit. It is mainly restaurants, shops, hostels, tour companies, and a few casinos, but was a fun look around nonetheless. It was nice to find a store that did not primarily sell moth balls and Virgin Mary candles, though I did enjoy that the "gourmet" market sold Biquick and Jiffy. Alas, I realized I had a cash shortage as we were there and needed to conserve. Instead, I opted for a low key dinner and took a water taxi back to my island abode. So now, heavily sunburned but happy, I am off to bed!

Panama

I got to Panamaa yesterday afternoon. It has been a bit of a ride so far, but overall quite fun and quirky. It started with flying into Tocumen International Airport in Panama City. My flight and subsequent taxi to the hostel were relatively uneventful. I was particularly excited to get my first taxi trip out of the way after reading far too many horror stories on Google that taxis in Panama were the only way to get around but that I would likely be kidnapped, robbed, or befall some other awful fate if I ever took one. This one was easy-I just went to the authorized taxis part of the airport and they hooked me up with an expensive but legitimate taxi.

 And off I went. I stayed in a neighborhood called Casco Viejo, which is the 2nd version of Panama. The first, Panama Viejo, was burned down by an evil Captain Morgan (who, ironically, then went on to later get a rum named after him). The city was relocated to Casco Viejo. By all accounts, the neighborhood is supposed to be up and coming. I was informed that it was a little rougher but safe and rapidly becoming gentrified. Now, the truth is that Casco Veijo has a LONG way to go before gentification. Half the area is falling apart. It is interspersed by some really nice buildings, which make the character all the more confusing. No great historically preserved buildings. No cute coffe shops or trendy boutiques. There are a few nice restaurants diluted by a whole lot of nothing. And, most importantly, surrounded by construction everywhere. I imagine in 5 years the place will look much more like Old San Juan. Right now, I rapidly deduced I could not stay there for a week. 

Nonetheless, my hostel was relatively safe and I deduced that I could spent 13 more dollars and have a room to myself. So I ended up upgrading and falling asleep at the ripe time of 8pm to sleep for approximately 11 hours. To be fair, I did wake up at 2am EST to get here. Also, there was not much else to do in the neighborhood that would not require me venturing past some falling down buildings or potentially stepping on a nail, so sleep was a good win. Today, I woke up at 7am and decided to head off for breakfast. It took me a while, but finally I found a somewhat trendy cafe across from a school in Casco Viejo that was willing to sell me a breakfast that was not being served from a bucket in a garage. I ate a greesy omelet and then hailed my first taxi to Panama Viejo!

Panama Viejo is the original Panama city and these really cool ruins that I fell in love with. After sitting through a museum on the history of Panama, most of which made no sense to me because only a third was labeled in English and my reading Spanish is atrocious, I headed out to the ruins. There were many old buildings, but there were a well preserved church and convent that were especially cool. You can ascend the bell tower in the church and get a panorama of Panama. Yay!

 I then had to hail a taxi back, which actually took me a bit. My fear of taxis is still quite strong. In addition to fearing kidnapping and robbing, I also fear that I will be in a taxi that stops to pick up a person who then contributes to the aforementioned. I also fear being swindled, which almost happened when a man tried to charge me 15 dollars for a ride that cost me 5 on the way over. Be proud, blog friends---I said no. Anyway, I have learned that most taxis have figured out that if they have a male passenger already it will make you uncomfortable and say no if they try to pick you up. Most, however, think that if they have another female passenger that it is okay to pick you. Which I think is both sexist and ageist to think that an older woman could not contribute to my demise. So, I shooed off the taxis unless they were completely empty, which resulted in me shouting "no!!!" at more than one taxi that likely had a grandmother riding. Whoops. Other taxi secrets. One, I always try to make small talk with taxi drivers in hope that it will deter them from murdering me. "We cannot off that one, she asked about my home!"

Though it is challenging to make small talk without giving off the wrong impression, at which point I like to bring in my mythical group of friends that are also on the trip and anxiously awaiting me at the destination. Conveniently, like Prince Harry and Prince William, we always travel separately in case on party is injured to ensure that an heir to the trip remains. Two, TripAdvisor told me that I should inspect the taxis before I climb in and make sure that the license plate matches the number painted on the car. Not only have I failed to do that, but when I do look at other taxis (a game I like to play around matching, like Memory but paid car version), almost NONE of them match. Which means I have to lower my standards or walk (which could be more hazardous). I consider it hugely successful that I have now ridden four taxis to my destination unscathed. I went to a cafeteria-style lunch place and paid $4 for chicken and pork on rice (I do love some Panama prices), and then headed over to Allbrook airport to take a plane to Bocas del Toro. After the plane ride, a water taxi, and a few short steps, I am now at my hotel for the next few days. Hoping to get some sun, swim, and scenery!

P.S.  I did end up coming around to Casco Viejo---it had a certain kind of charm once you got used to the chaos!